Warranty – A shingle warranty isn’t worth much – it’s easy to void if proper components are not used and installation isn’t as required. Workmanship warranties are where it’s at. A proven track record from a company that has staff and will be around next year is your best bet. Even waste removal can become a headache for the homeowner when containers damage driveways and property.

Liability – Without proper insurance (WSIB and Liability), guess who’s responsible for the roofer’s well being and your property’s? The homeowner!

More established London roofing contractors include (no particular order):
Murray Shaw
Sears Canada
Davidoff Roofing
Byron Roofing
Courtney Roofing
Lloyd’s Roofing

What set’s us apart?

Read: How To Properly Compare Roofers & Quotes

Doing a cost-benefit analysis, assuming interest, and energy cost savings with metal roofs ($80 / year maximum on a large house in ideal conditions) you can replace “Lifetime” shingles three times (at 15, 30, and 45 years) and the aluminum roof does not become more cost-effective until year 45 at the third replacement. Realistically, Lifetime shingles should last around 35-45 years in our area; so there is little chance that you’ll be roofing your home more than once. Ask any real estate agent or appraiser; they can not define a higher home price in typical sale benefit with metal roofs. As far as looks, most metal roofs are downright ugly – but we’re a little biased (slate look shingle is only the start in colours, textures and shape options). There are endless styles of lifetime shingles by GAF, Certainteed and CRC we can install (peek at the home pictured above we roofed in London with Camelot by GAF). The photo above taken in London, Ontario shows shingles are what we carry in stock and are the lowest cost to install due to shingle size and supply. Check them out!

Click for color selection and specs

Click for color selection and specs

If the roofer’s paperwork is not in order you are liable for his safety and any damage to even your neighbors’ property. Your roof life is directly affected by how it is installed. If the roofer cannot show you what components they use and why, if you have enough venting, and give you a warranty they can honor – it would be wise to keep on looking. Below is checklist of what to look for on your quote and in a roofing contractor.

01 Components
The cheapest quote usually means the cheapest roof components as well, if they even replace all components. Eaves treatment ranges from $50 to over $100 a roll, and others substitute proper ice and water membrane with tar paper. Cheap ice and water will deteriorate like tar paper and cannot be used in valleys. Venting using cheap square-top vents leak if under snow (if installed in front of a gable where snow accumulates); tops can actually be pried off in high winds as well. If you are offered shingle underlay, what do they use? Even though tar paper is cheapest, it can actually reduce shingle life
.

02 Shingles
A knowledgeable roofer will explain your many shingle choices and experiences with different manufacturers and types. If you have questions regarding warranty they should be clearly answered (labor versus material coverage). Lastly, you should have pricing for different options to compare which material is best in your case.

03 Venting
This is one of the most determining factors in roof’s life: improper venting deteriorates the shingle by heating it from underneath, causing ice dams in the winter, resulting in structural rot to your home. The roofer should explain if you have enough venting, how much you need, and present your options. It should not cost a fortune to add vents seeing that mechanical venting requirements are very rare. Shingle warranties are based on proper venting.

04 Liability
Does your contractor carry workman’s compensation and proper training certification? If the crew is not properly covered, you are personally liable for their safety as they are on your property. In Ontario they must show you a WSIB Clearance Certificate. If they do not show you such a document, they should not be on your roof. They should also be able to show you proof of Fall Arrest Certification as part of the proper roofing safety training. Do they have liability protection and insurance against damage to you or your neighbor’s property? Again, you are liable when your roofer is not properly bonded.

05 Waste Removal
One of the largest parts of the project is safely removing the tones of shingles and nails off your roof into the dump. Does the roofer use a dump trailer or a bin (a bin is more likely to damage your driveway)? Do they magnetically remove nails from your grass?

06 Warranty
Will your contractor give you written warranties for labor and materials? You should know clearly what you are covered for, and the duration. Your Workmanship and Shingle warranty slips should be properly looked after.

07 Reputation
Does the company have a solid reputation for excellence? How long has your contractor been in business? Do they have an office? Without a proven track record you have no way of gauging the likely-hood of the roofer returning to service your requests, or being around for the years they write you a warranty.

08 Reliability
Can you reach your contractor 24 hours a day, 7 days a week? 
Ask for references. Do they stand behind their work and service their customers?

Shingle manufacturers tout product warranties that range from 25 to 50 years. They use impressive-sounding long-term warranties to convince buyers that their shingles are the best and will last the longest. They compete over such features as the length of coverage, algae resistance, wind tolerance, and whether the warranty can be transferred to a new owner. Since warranties are foremost a marketing device, they are more or less of a predictor of lifespan – others would argue otherwise.

Many roofing companies will only offer their customers a 30-year limited material warranty through the manufacturer.

What does this include then?
The typical shingle warranty covers materials and labor to replace shingles that are proven to have significant manufacturing defects within 5 years from manufacture or installation for a 30-year shingle (10 years for a lifetime shingle). After the 5 years the cost of labor is excluded, and the cost of shingle material is pro-rated (decreases in percentage) based on the expected life of the shingle.

Tear off, disposal, replacement of flashing and other components are typically excluded, as are shingle replacement in cases where installation was not completed in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations or where ventilation is not adequate. Another notable exclusion is that warranties do not cover damage to your interior and belongings.

So what do I look for in a roof warranty?
A good roofer and certified shingles. A credible roofer will give you a good workmanship warranty and will be around to honor it. Properly certified shingles are lab tested to perform.

01 ASTM D 3462 certification – to be certified to these standards, the shingle products must have successfully withstood procedures such as nail withdrawing and tear strength tests.
02 UL certification – means the shingle has been tested against wind and hail impact. Check for the ASTM and UL labels on shingle packaging and in product brochures.
03 Newer shingles also come with zinc or copper coatings, which considerably reduces the problem of algae and staining to help maintain a shingle’s good looks.

Manufacturer’s Defect vs. Roofer Error
Shingles found to have a manufacturer’s defect are credited in a warranty. However, this occurrence that is so rare, your local roof supplier likely hasn’t ever seen it if you ask them. Even if you are one of the rare ones, getting reimbursed for a dozen bad shingles won’t help much with the cost of repairing your roof. Other materials are needed, roof components and labor being the largest expense. Don’t forget that the spaces around and between the shingles (the most leak prone areas) are not usually covered by a shingle warranty.

The Warranty Process
The claim process itself is a barrier to a successful shingle warranty claim. Each company has a different procedure. Some require a daunting task list, completed questionnaires, photographs, and a sample of the damaged shingles. Unless the warranty covers labor as well as materials, the money or shingle credits you receive from the company may not even cover the cost of paying someone to climb up on your roof to take photos and gather samples of your defective shingles.

Identifying Defective Shingles
An untrained eye can spot the most common manufacturing defect. First off, your roof will not look pristine for very long. It doesn’t always mean you have bad shingles, but something beyond reasonable should raise red flags. If your shingles are blistering, splitting or cracking, balding (granules coming off completely)- they may be defective. Discoloration may be caused by algae growth. Not all shingles are guaranteed not to grow algae, so check your documentation to find out if your shingles are supposed to be algae-resistant.

Transferring Roof Warranty to a New Owner
If you bought the home after the roof was installed, you need to determine whether the original warranty was transferable. If the material warranty card was filled upon installation, you will need to make proper updates, as you are the new homeowners. Shingle warranties are more likely to be transferable than roofer guarantees, but some reputable contractors will give you a written warranty that will also be transferable. At the very least, when buying a house with a newer roof, you should ask the seller for the name of the roofer who did the installation, the type of shingles used, and the date of installation. When you are shopping around for a roofer, compare warranty terms and not just prices. A transferable roof guarantee may also make the deal a little better to a potential home buyer.

To Sum it up…
A reputable roofing company with a track record is your best warranty. A roofer worth his salt will explain clearly what you’re getting – a written workmanship warranty and a shingle warranty card should both be issued. Make sure you know your product being installed is properly certified, and know your roofer installing it will be around next year to stand behind their warranty.

01 Deck
Sheathing or roof deck usually consists of wood materials like plywood or OSB that is nailed to the roof truss. The deck is your roof’s foundation; a solid roof starts with a solid deck. Any part of the deck that is rotten or warped must be replaced. It is important that only proper cured lumber be used for sheathing as otherwise the roof material may buckle or pull away as the wood dries.

02 Underlayment
Roofing underlayment is used on pitched roof as a second layer of protection (most against the elements while shingles are installed) or for added protection if shingle blow-offs are experienced. When the roof is completed the underlayment can shorten your roof’s life. Felt paper (tar paper) is used as underlay due to its low cost and water resistant properties. There are 3 major issues that tar paper can present. First, it is susceptible to lifting due to heat, causing waves in the roof (this is commonly fixed by removing some shingles and slashing the paper, rendering is useless). Second, it is not breathable. Therefore, it can actually case damage to the roof deck (such as rot) and add heat to the underside of the shingle. Lastly, it tears easily. Since there are at least 130 nails per sheet of ply (4’x8’ decking), you can imagine water will easily get through no problem (ice and water membrane seals nails that pass through it, tar paper just tears).

At CVH Roofing, we do not use tar paper; we use only synthetic underlay. Synthetic roof underlayments serve the same function as a secondary weather barrier with better resistance to tearing, moisture, ultraviolet rays, and are fully breathable. Synthetics are typically polypropylene, polyester, or fiberglass fabric.

03 Eave Protection
Think “eaves trough”. It’s where your roof starts at the bottom, which is also one of the most crucial spots. Considerable damage can be caused to the eaves as a result of ice build-up during winter freeze/thaw cycles. Ice and water, leak barrier, eave guard, and etc all refer to at least 2 feet of special water resistant material that protects your eaves area and valleys. This material ranges in price from $50 to over $100 a roll, which speaks to the different quality of material that can be placed on your roof. Roofers might even replace felt paper for ice and water on unknowing homeowners.

04 Eave Edge Treatment
A drip edge is a piece of metal that is nailed at the bottom of the roof edge (or eaves) to facilitate proper water drainage. The metal drip edge should be positioned under the eaves protection membrane at the eaves edge. It allows for the water to drain into gutters or cleanly off of the roof rather than running down the roof edge and down the fascia, which will eventually lead to rot. The drip edge is one of the first things attached to the roof and should be installed underneath the roofing felt with about ¾ inch of overhang extending past the fascia and hanging just over the gutters. A drip edge can range in materials and thickness, but typically a roof drip edge is most commonly made from galvanized metal or aluminum.

05 Shingles
In order to get the maximum performance out of your shingles, all other roof components must be carefully chosen and properly installed; however, the shingles themselves will determine the longevity of your roof. Shingles start from 25-year 3-tab choices to lifetime warranties. It is very important to compare the price difference of a number of systems to determine which presents the best value in your situation.

If you live in most of Canada, a 25-year shingle is the cheapest per bundle, but will cost more after it is on our roof. Warranties and shingle construction should be understood before buying, you might be expecting something else.

06 Ridge Cap
The ridge is at the top of a roof where the sides meet to form an angle. The ridge runs the length of the roof, and must be capped with ridge cap shingles.

07 Starter
A starter strip is typically a row of shingle material that is applied on top of the underlayment and drip edge but underneath the primary shingle layer. The starter strip is usually a shingle laid upside down or a strip of shingle material half the width of a shingle. It protects the shingles from wind at the bottom of the roof by being adhered to the edge of the eaves, and it fills in the spaces left by the tabs of most shingles.

08 Ventilation
A properly ventilated attic will keep your roof deck and insulation dry, dissipate heat build-up in the attic space, minimize the potential for ice dams, and extend the life of your shingles.

Having proper levels of ventilation will also help ease your heating and cooling costs and make your home a healthier place. Chances are your roof is in dire need of more ventilation, especially if you see any curled shingles anywhere. Air enters intakes (usually through the perforated soffit) and exits through the exhaust vents.

Having proper levels of ventilation will also help ease your heating and cooling costs and make your home a healthier place.  Chances are your roof is in dire need of more ventilation, especially if you see any curled shingles anywhere.  Air enters intakes (usually through the perforated soffit) and exits through the exhaust vents.

There are many different types of vents; make sure you know what type presents the most value or which is most suitable for your purpose.  If your roofer can’t tell you what types are available, how much you need, and what the best options are, find a new roofer!  The general rule of thumb is that the minimum ventilation required is one square foot of Net Free Air (NFA) for every 300 square feet of insulated attic space.  The split of intake and exhaust I generally accepted at a 50% intake and 50% exhaust ratio.

Venting doesn’t need to be electrical or mechanical to work perfectly well; you should have enough and the proper type for your application.  You may be able to add years to your roof by just adding one vent!

09 Flashing Systems
Flashing systems are a site where many roof leaks occur. Whether flashing is located where roof planes intersect, around vents, or at the chimney, most flashing systems should be replaced when a new roof is being installed.  Think of flashing like a kind of metal angle around chimneys, dormers, vents, skylights, and etc.  A flashing system that is properly installed will have water run over joints, not in them.

Flashing is installed on top of the ice and water membrane.  The most common types of flashing are the following

10 Valley Treatment
The valley (the low point of where 2 roof fields join together making an in ward angle) is a crucial spot that must be installed properly.  A premium ice and water membrane should be installed (even under metal or open valleys) and it should be free of nail punctures near the bottom.  Metal valley flashing may be installed; it can make the valleys last if installed properly, but can also wear and warp with time.

11 Roofing Warranties
A 25 or 45 year covered shingle is not guarantee to last that long.  Shingle warranties cover only shingle defects for the first 4 to 7 years fully, after which they are pro-rated.  So after the first full covered period, the coverage drops yearly until it runs out.  This means on the 10^th year you may only have a very small percentage of the roof material covered, which is by far the least of the expenses.  Manufacturers use impressive sounding long-term warranties to convince buyers that their shingles are the best and will last the longest.  They compete over such features as the length of coverage, algae resistance, wind tolerance, and whether the warranty can be transferred to a new owner.  These warranties can be their main selling points.  However, don’t be taken in; standard manufacturer’s warranties are not worth a dime in most cases, ask any supplier to see how many successful warranty claims they’ve had since in business.  It comes down to proper installation, and making sure the manufacturer is reliable (most large manufacturers warranty coverage is the same), as is the contractor’s track record.  There are too many small outfits running out of pick-ups that change cell phone numbers every year, and with such a high turnover, it tends to give the whole industry a bad name.

12 Ice Dams
Ice dams occur when snow melts near the top of warm roofs.  It then cools and freezes down the roof to the overhang.  As winter continues, snowfall continues the melt and freeze process, forming an ice dam that can seep under the shingles through the decking and into the house.  Even in freezing temperatures, this causes serious roof leaks.  The best prevention to ice dams is a well-ventilated roof so that the temperature in the eaves area is comparable to the one at the top portion of the roof.  Protection for the eave area must be applied in the form of an impermeable ice and water membrane (installed on top of the decking, under the roofing material during the roofing process).  Electric cables along the eaves can be used in the prevention of ice dams where they usually form.

However, this is not the ultimate solution as new ice dams can form above the cables and wreak the same havoc. An emergency / temporary solution is to fill a sock or nylon with calcium chloride and lay it vertically across the ice dam. Others have improvised ways to chop at the ice, spread salt or a constant stream of hot water. All these are methods that just add wear and do not solve the situation.

As a vehicle needs maintenance to stay on the road, a roofing system needs regular cleaning and upkeep for protection from external elements and to function properly.  Preventative maintenance greatly reduces the likelihood of leaks, damage, and premature roof failures.  A roof’s life can be extended significantly if it functions properly.

A roof needs to BREATHE!

Roof vents at the base (eaves or in the soffits) and near the top (ridge) of the roof are mandatory for circulation. Naturally the cool air will be drawn through the bottom and the warm air leaves through the top, therefore electrical or mechanical fans are not needed in most cases.

If the temperature is significantly different in your attic than it is outside, the shingles deteriorate rapidly, ice dams form, condensation and rot inside the attic will damage the home structure, and your heating/ cooling will be inefficient. Proper venting is required in order to warranty a roof.

Clean Gutters

Prevent the accumulation of debris in your gutters.  The accumulation of leafs in the fall becomes a larger problem in the winter when it goes through freeze and melt cycles.   The solution is to keep them clean or install leaf screens or guards on all gutters or just those that are difficult to access.  We recommend a professional to trim away tree branches that are hanging over your house. This step can also help prevent animal access to your roof.

Other Small Repairs

01     Re-caulking of terminations, counter flashing, and chimney flashing.

02     You may also re-nail or replace loose or damaged shingles

03     Replace the mortar on chimneys.

04     Repair worn or rusted valleys (where two sides join).

05     Repair/ seal around plumbing stacks (look for split lead gaskets and dried caulking).

06     Replace damaged vents (crushed or missing vents caused by raccoons or squirrels).

07     Leaking skylight (look for seal failure, improper installation, damaged flashing detail, cracked lenses, condensation).

Owners need to recognize the importance of their investment and protect the home and its contents from damage.

The best value for a home you want a quality roof on – this is what we install on most homes where the homeowner plans to stay. 15-30% thicker than 30 year shingle, this durable shingle is one of our favourite. Visit our London Ontario or Kitchener Office to pick up samples, or give us a call to meet with you for samples.

Click for color selection and specs

The best entry level shingle option for a re-roof. Laminate shingles are unlike the 3 tab shingle in that they are “one solid piece” with no tabs that readily fly off in windstorms.  This solid piece is made up of layers of asphalt impregnated fiberglass mat bonded together. The price difference between these and 25-year shingle is almost negligible at CVH Roofing. Stop by our office in Kitchener or London Ontario. Or give us a call, and we’ll gladly drop off shingle samples to you.

Click for Color selection and specs

01 Shingle condition: Broken or loose shingles at the ridge line, in valleys, plumbing vents, or near chimneys. This can be caused by extreme wind conditions and/ or snow removal. Damaged shingles are an even greater concern when it comes to low slope roofs where water run-off is slower. Also, they are dangerous at the peaks of the roof where shingles are particularly vulnerable to the effects high winds.

02 Granules: Dark patches on asphalt shingles and/ or large amounts of granules in the rain gutters. This could mean that the granular coating of your roof is wearing away and needs to be replaced. If you see dark patches, be sure to check the interior for dark or discolored drywall or other evidence of a leak.

03 Sagging: Either on the ridges or in the center of the roof planes, may indicate that your roof structure is rotting. Immediate attention is required to prevent structural failure.

04 Buckling: This is a visible distortion of waviness in the horizontal lines of shingles, and usually runs in a straight line up the roof slope. Shingle tabs become exposed to wind and can be torn off. Can be warping in the roof deck caused by poor attic ventilation, as the shingles are cooked from underneath. Felt paper that is humid or hot can bubble in many cases. The use of thinner-than-recommended decking can add to the problem.

05 Gutters: Overflowing gutters cause water damage the eaves and fascia area of your roof. Even if the fascia and soffit are aluminum, the weight can damage the fascia, and the water gets behind the aluminum cladding easily.

06 Curling: Shingles that are bent up in the middle or turned up at the corners. During the roof’s natural aging process, the shingle tab’s bottom edge may begin to curl under. The resulting bulge is susceptible to substantial damage by wind action, hail and ice.

07 Nails: A loose nail means an open hole, which can cause leaks and subsequent water damage to your roof as the water seeps around the head of the exposed nail.

08 Clawing: This is the curling under of the shingle tab’s bottom edge and is part of the normal aging process of shingles. The bulge created is susceptible to extensive damage by strong wind, hail and ice.

09 Flashings: Many weather related problems tend to occur at the flashings around vents, soil stacks, chimneys, and vertical wall joints. Consider the following questions when it comes to your roof’s flashings: Is the flashing cracked? Is the caulking around the flashing dried out? Are the shingles that lie over the flashing in good shape? Pieces of metal or roll roofing wrapped around vent pipes, chimneys and adjoining walls to prevent water seepage and leakage.

10 Blistering and Rotting: Bubbles ranging from pea size up to a quarter size is caused by moisture in the shingle. They appear on the surface of asphalt roofing. This is more prevalent in organic (felt) shingles.

11 Ice Dams: Occur when snow melts near the ridgelines of warm roofs (roofs without adequate ventilation), as the water runs down the roof to the overhang, it cools and freezes. If the snow continues this melt and freeze process, an ice dam can form that can seep under the shingles, through the decking and into the house. This can cause serious roof leaks, even in freezing temperatures.

12 Ruptured Valleys: Metal valleys can rupture due to ice build up, and it can corrode with age as well. Valleys should be kept in good shape, with the ice and water membrane underneath in good condition.

In your attic, take a flashlight and look for…

01 Stains or Wet Spots: Indicates water leaks at the underside of the roof deck and rafters.

02 Condensation, Wood Rot, Mold, Mildew and Rusting Metal: Occur if inadequate ventilation exists. These problems can affect the reliability of the roof as well as the integrity of the house, and can even cause health problems for family members in the home. Insufficient venting voids your roof warranty.

03 Blocked Soffits: Homes that have minimal overhangs often suffer from insufficient intake because brick walls are pocketed in between rafter spaces. Example: When installing insulation or aluminum vented soffits, holes need to be cut through the underlying original wood soffit beforehand.

04 Bathroom Exhaust Vents: These vents need to exhaust through a wall or roof instead of into the attic.

05 Plug Air Leaks: Areas prone to air leaks are around pipes protruding into the attic, and where walls adjoin to roof rafters.

Inside your home…

Most of the time the first sign of roof failure is not on the roof itself but inside your home! The symptoms below may be caused by condensation in the attic or water seeping underneath the shingle covering. They also may result from ice buildup in the eaves. These symptoms appear insignificant but they are warning signs of future roofing problems. Look for the following:

• Ceiling stains

• Flaking paint and plaster

• Peeling wallpaper

• Discoloration where the wall and ceiling join